The Maltese Cross in Antique Jewellery

HISTORY & SIGNIFANCE OF THE MALTESE CROSS IN JEWELLERY 

The History, adoption and meaning 

Originating from an ancient 6th century Byzantine design, the shape which came to be known as the Maltese Cross, was adopted in the 11th century by Italian merchants from Amalfi who in 1048 founded a hospital in Jerusalem to care for pilgrims on their way to and from the 'Holy Land', significant as it was linked to the Order of St John (linked to St John the Baptist). The Knights Hospitaller, as they came to be known, originally formed to protect and care for travellers regardless of race or faith, and can still be be seen today as the symbol used internationally by fire departments, ambulance corps, and St. John First Aid organizations as a badge of protection, courage, and medical service.

In 1489 it was officially mandated that the Knights wear a white cross with 8 points on their black cloaks for easy identification in battle; and shortly after, in 1530 the Knights Hospitaller relocated to the island of Malta and brought the cross emblem with them. Over the course of time, the cross became inextricably linked with Maltese identity and became known as The Maltese Cross. 

Significance of the design

The four V shaped arms of the cross form 8 points, which traditionally carry chivalric and religious significance and meaning. 

  • The Eight Beatitudes: the eight biblical blessings delivered by Jesus at the Sermon on the Mount. 
  • The Eight Knightly Obligations: The points represent the knight's daily code: to live in truth, have faith, repent sins, give proof of humility, love justice, be merciful, be sincere, and endure persecution. 
  • The Eight Langues: Historically, they also represented the eight national origins of the noblemen who made up the Order of St John (Provence, France, Auvergne, Italy, Aragon, Germany, England, and Castile/Portugal). 

The Maltese Cross in Antique Jewellery

The Maltese cross became a popular motif in British jewellery largely due to the influence of Lady Emma Hamilton, whose lover Lord Horatio Nelson was responsible for breaking the blockade of Valletta in 1800, which was crucial in driving the French troops under Napoleon out of Malta. 

Emma, who came from a humble background was awarded the Sovereign Military Order of Malta and received a gold Maltese cross in recognition of her humanitarian work to arrange food relief for the Maltese islanders during and after the French blockade. She was the first British woman to become a dame of Malta and wore her Maltese Cross frequently at high-society events, sparking a widespread fashion craze that peaked in the 1830s and 1840s. Heraldic recognition followed when Emma was officially granted her own coat of arms in 1806, which proudly incorporated the Maltese Cross above rampant lions. 

Public display of the distinct eight-pointed cross by Emma turned the award into a high-status symbol. Jewellery trends quickly adopted the motif, with wealthy women commissioning brooches, pendants, and necklaces featuring the Maltese Cross design. Longevity of the style persisted strongly through the Georgian era, the Maltese Cross remaining a popular jewellery motif well into the latter 19th century. 

A fascination with medieval chivalry during the Gothic Revival alongside the 19th-century romantic obsession with medieval history, crusader heritage, and knightly virtues, made the eight-pointed emblem a meaningful and enduring style choice for items of jewellery. In addition, traditional Maltese silver filigree work featuring the cross was featured at major exhibitions, being showcased prominently at events like the 1851 Great Exhibition in London, increasing its commercial availability and appeal across Britain. 

As such the Maltese Cross is oft seen in antique Georgian and Victorian jewellery, and we have a number of examples in our collection. They're an unusual choice to wear today, but still hold great interest and historical charm for the collector.